Know Your Natural Hair Type

1. Wavy A is fine and wavy, B is medium and wavy, and C is thick course and can look a little frizzy.

Recommendations for Wavy Type

• Coconut Curl Shampoo

• Coconut Curl Conditioner

• Aloe Moisturizing Shampoo

• Aloe Moisturizing Conditioner

• Hair Nourishment Oil

• Protein Hair Strengthener

• Olive Moisture Mask

• Coconut Milk

• Coconut Curl Spray

2. Curly‐ from loose to spiral.or  has a loose curl pattern, has a tighter curl, and has a tighter curl that may look a little more frizzy or kinky. This type of hair tends to look a little less shiny because it is harder for the hair to reflect the light. Type 3 hair needs more moisture because the natural oils from the scalp can't cover the hair shaft due to the bends of the curl. Type 3 hair easily absorbs and loves water. Be careful of water damage to hair. Try adding water to hair once daily.

Recommendations for Curly Hair:

• Coconut Shampoo

• Coconut Conditioner

• Hair Nourishment

• Shea Butter Hair Lotion

• Coconut Curl Lotion

• Coconut Hair Milk

• Jojoba Hemp Balm

• Coconut Curl Spray

• Coconut Hair Pudding

• Olive Moisture Mask

3. Tightly Coiled Kinky Hair‐ Versatile but tends to be dry and fragile. Has less cuticle layers so hair grows slower. Hair does not absorb water as readily as curly but should be added once daily for moisture. Do not recommend brushing kinky hair instead use a wide tooth comb.

Recommendations for Kinky Hair:

• Califa Care Shampoo

• Califa Care Conditioner

• Califa Care Leave‐In Conditioner

• Califa Care Moisturizing Spray

• Califa Care Moisturizing Cream

• Jojoba Hemp Balm

• Hair Nourishment Oil

• Shea Butter Hair Lotion

• Olive Moisture Mask

• Protein Hair Strengthener

• Coconut Hair Pudding

• Coconut Curl Lotion

Taking Care of Your Black Hair

Tips for Styling Black Hair

I especially avoid any styling products that might be drying to their hair. You’ll want to be very careful with hair sprays, mousse products, gels etc. But, there are a few aids I use for certain hair styles to provide hold or some straightening:

• Treasured Locks Locks of Curls Pomade & Gel- provides hold and moisture in one product. An aloe vera based gel product with Shea Butter oil and other natural moisturizers & softeners. This is great for two strand twists, straw sets or to hold in braids for less frizzing. Also can be used to work kinky hair into curly hair.

• Treasured Locks Thermo Shield- a spray that protect from heat and gives hair a shine when flat ironing or pressing

Repetition

This is very important. I repeat the Moisturize and/or Oiling steps above on a regular (almost daily) basis when I’m combing/styling my hair. Even if it’s in a non-comb style (like twists), I’ll touch them up just about daily, with something. I’m careful to avoid build-up and I don’t use a lot of product. But, I find that my hair is healthiest when receiving moisture on a very regular basis.

Controlling Frizzyness and Curliness in Black Hair

We’ve had people of various ethnicities who are very pleased with it. It does not actually alter the structure of the hair like a relaxer would. It can be applied in the home and wears off after several weeks. Other products help when styling curly and/or frizzy hair include:

• Treasured Locks Conditioning Balm- Treasured Locks Conditioning Balm is a botanically rich, leave-in conditioning and styling balm that straightens and controls curly frizzy hair while, giving incredible shine and manageability.

• Treasured Locks Liquid Silk- A space age blend of silk proteins for redefining any texture hair. Curly hair becomes smooth and shiny.

• Treasured Locks Locks of Curls- doesn’t eliminate curls, but defines them, turning kinks into soft flowing curls or just smoothing out curls and making them more defined. With the proper styling technique, you can get those bouncy flowing curls

Remember to read labels

When choosing a shampoo try to steer clear of shampoos with sodium laureth/lauryl sulfates. This is a harsh drying chemical that will cause damage to your hair over time. Look for shampoos that have natural cleansers such as Coco Betaine or Polyglucose. PEG 150 is not completely natural but it is mild and won't strip you hair. Other ingredients to steer clear of are mineral oil and petroleum. They are cheap chemicals that coat the hair. It is very effective in making your hair shiny and smooth, however, they cause build up and clogging of the hair follicles. You can get the same results and greater benefits from natural oils like Jojoba, coconut, olive, shea, and meadowfoam seed oil. Look for products that contain essential oils or an herbal oil infusion instead of herbal extracts. Most herbal extracts contain alcohol and are not as potent as an essential oil or herbal oil infusion. Always read the labels of hair products to ensure you are supplying your hair with all the nourishment it needs to stay perfect.

Oiling My Hair and Scalp

The subject of whether to oil or not is controversial in African hair care. You’ll have to decide for yourself. My experience has been that oil is good for my hair. The right oil though is of vital importance. I only use all natural oils, mostly plant oils. I try to avoid mineral oil and petroleum based products. The one notable exception to the plant oil rule is emu oil (an animal oil). I love emu oil! This is one of those places where you’ll really have to experiment. To apply the product, I put a little of the product in the palm of my hand (and melt it, if it’s a solid product). I then rub it on the hair and massage into the scalp. I will not use anything that doesn't melt at body temperature. Some of my favorite oils are:

• Shea Butter Oil- has the wonderful properties of Shea Butter, but in a much lighter, liquid form. It’s still a key ingredient in many hair and skin care products.

• Emu Oil- unbelievably good for scalp health. Improves circulation, reduces inflammation and has natural antiseptic properties. All help promote hair growth.

• Jojoba Oil- the closest thing to natural sebum itself. Jojoba oil is technically a wax, not oil. It can actually make oily skin less oily and dry skin more oily, In other words, it helps bring skin into balance.

• Castor Oil- nice all natural plant oil that helps humectify (draw moisture to) the hair and scalp.

• SheaMoisture Shea Butter Leave-In Conditioner

• Treasured Locks Hair & Scalp Elixir

• Treasured Locks Conditioning Balm

• Treasured Locks H2G Hair Growth Serum- with Emu Oil. My favorite.

Salon Hair Care Tips for African American Women

How to Condition African American Hair

Conditioner is vital because conditioner helps leave the hair feeling smooth by leaving a thin wax-like coating. Conditioner also helps lessen the breakage and pulling caused by tangling. Tangling happens when the cuticle of one strand of hair (which are more raised in Black and Biracial hair) catches on the cuticle of another hair. Conditioner also smoothes over rough broken edges of the outer layer of hair. By smoothing over the outer layer of the hair, conditioner makes the hair feel softer, reflect light better and keeps it from tangling and breaking as much. Lastly, the protective coating left on by conditioner holds moisture and reduces static electricity.

Tips for Deep Conditioning Black Hair

At least once a week, I deep condition their hair. I will use one of several products:

• Treasured Locks Deep V Conditioner

• Treasured Locks Hot Hair Repair

• Baka Beauty Sahara Clay

• HumiNature Rhassoul Clay

I put one of the deep conditioning products on after co washing and use either a microwave or professional heat

cap for 30 minutes or so. The moist, gentle heat allows the cuticles to open and the moisturizing product to penetrate

the hair shaft. A good hot oil treatment could be done here instead.

How to Properly Moisturize African American Hair

Probably the most important key to healthy African American hair care is moisture. Because of the structure of our hair, it tends to become dry easily. Dry hair lacks elasticity and therefore is brittle and prone to breakage. Moisturize with good products and do it often. Moisturizing is not necessarily the same as oiling. And it is certainly not the same as putting on what we used to call “grease” (see below). After the Deep Conditioning or Conditioning I moisturize. I use one of these products:

• Treasured Locks Leave-in Spray Conditioner

• Black Earth Protective Mist Bodifier

• Treasured Locks Conditioning Balm

• SheaMoisture Shea Butter Leave-In Conditioner

• Treasured Locks Locks Of Curls Pomade & Gel

Help Prevent Split Ends

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  • Try using hair products that do not contain alcohol. If alcohol is listed in the first 5 ingredients it is a danger to your fragile ends! This would include products such as: mousse, hair spray, gel, and other products used to either straighten or curl hair.

  • If you feel you must use these products. Try giving your tress a hot oil treatment, preferably with jojoba oil or placenta, every two weeks. You may also want to buy a conditioner with jojoba oil or shea butter. If you can't find a conditioner with jojoba or shea you may add ¼ cup of jojoba oil to your favorite conditioner. Also treat your hair to a trim every 6‐8 weeks.

  • If your braids are tight, try using an oil mixture of tea tree oil or peppermint oil with jojoba oil. Use 15 drops of tea tree or peppermint oil per 2 oz of jojoba oil. Then apply to scalp around the hairline. You may also apply shea butter to the hairline. If your hair has recently been braided try not to pull your hair back or up for the first 2 weeks and always wrap them with a silk or satin scarf before bedtime or while working out. The most important fact about braids is the care of them.
  • Make sure you don't wear braid over 8‐10 weeks. You must take the braids down to wash, condition and trim your hair.

  • Remember, just because you're wearing braids doesn't mean you shouldn't condition your own hair. Wear the braids for a short time then give your hair a break before you put them in again. Cornrows are less damaging than individual braids.

Combing Wet and Tangled Hair

Combing wet & tangled hair: 

I like to use conditioners with jojoba or olive oil in them. It coats the hair shaft making the hair soft and less tangled. Or

You may want to purchase a leave‐in conditioner designed to detangle hair before combing. Using a wide tooth comb start from the ends combing up towards the scalp this will decrease hair breakage. Never use a bristle bush on wet hair this causes breakage which leads to fly‐a‐ways.

• Watering your hair daily or every other day is crucial. This does not mean washing your hair but merely wetting it. Water is the best moisture for our hair. Water also acts as a toner for hair products. It helps bring hair products further into the hair shaft. This way product won't weigh your hair down. So you should always apply hair products to damp hair for wash and go styles. If you live in colder climate and not too happy about leaving the house with wet hair then we suggest wetting your hair then adding products when you get home. Remember braiding or twisting hair at bedtime makes for easy grooming the next day.

• Get to know and accept your hair texture. Most natural hair care products are not designed to change your hair texture, however, make it more manageable and offer your hair essentials to encourage healthy growth.

• When applying hair products it is best to work in the product by finger combing your hair. This way you are also training your hair.

• Do NOT use bristle brushes, especially, if you have tightly coiled hair. This will weaken and cause your hair break. Use a wide toothed comb, a paddle/wig brush, or finger comb. On average we shed up to 100 stands of hair daily so it is important to groom hair. Remember to start grooming from your ends to scalp.

• It is important to keep a clean scalp. Washing your hair 1‐2 times a week is excellent! Natural shampoos are not as effective to remove cones from hair. You may have to wash hair twice if using a natural shampoo and products with dimethicone.

• Shrinkage is normal for our type hair. The best way to combat shrinkage is preparation. A braid or twist out is great styles for African American hair. If you can't find the time then you may want to look into a gel type of products which will only minimize shrinkage.

• Wear a silk or satin scarf to bed. This will protect your hair and stop it from breaking and drying out. A satin pillow case will do as well.

• Love your hair in all its glory. If your hair is healthy then it is beautiful!

Structure of Black Hair

Hair is mostly made of a protein called keratin. Fingernails and the top layer of skin are also made of keratin protein. Each strand of hair consists of three layers.
1. An innermost layer or medulla.
2. The middle layer is the cortex. The cortex provides strength, color, and the texture of hair. 
3. The outermost layer is the cuticle. The cuticle is thin and colorless which protects the cortex.

The center of the hair is called the cortex. It makes up 80 percent of Indian hair. It's made of small fibrils that twist together to make the longer fibers stronger. The cuticle is made of dead cells that overlap each other in several layers. The condition of the cuticle plays a part in the appearance of the hair. If the dead cells lay closely together (closed cuticles) then the hair looks shiny and healthy, however, if they lift up (open cuticles) the hair appears dull, dry, and tangles easily.

Medulla cells contain air pockets that are found inside the hair shaft which form the medullary canal. Lipids, a fat substance, is passed through to the cortex or cuticle from the medulla cells. Layers of lipids are formed to bind moisture and protein to the hair shaft. African American hair consists of 88% protein, 10‐15% water, 5‐10% pigments, minerals and lipids. The cortex and cuticle are formed from solid keratin fiber and the binding material is formed from amorphous keratin, which fills in the spaces inside the cortex and cuticle. The amorphous keratin holds the fibrous structure together and keeps it elasticity.

Structure of the hair root

Beneath the surface of the skin is the root of the hair, which is enclosed within a hair follicle. At the base of the hair follicle is the dermal papilla. The dermal papilla is fed by the bloodstream which nourishment the new hair produces. The dermal papilla is essential to hair growth because it contains receptors for androgen and male hormones. Androgen regulates hair growth.

The Hair Growth Cycle

Hair follicles grow in repeated cycles. A cycle can be broken down into three phases:

Anagen ‐ Growth Phase

Catagen ‐ Transitional phase

Telogen ‐ Resting Phase Each hair goes through the phases independent of the neighboring hairs.

The regeneration of hair is influenced by many factors:

• Health
• Hereditary factors
• Diet
• Hormone balance
• Age
• Physical condition
• Climate
• Chemical effects
• Sex
• Effects of disease